Skin oils

Authors: Prof. Dr. med. Peter Altmeyer, Prof. Dr. med. Martina Bacharach-Buhles

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Last updated on: 10.07.2025

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Synonym(s)

Body Oils

Definition
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Skin oils have a high significance in dermatology. Likewise in Ayurvedic medicine ("it is better to buy and massage oil every day than to carry large sums of money to the doctor").

Pharmacodynamics (Effect)
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Many skin oils are based on jojoba oil, which is not a vegetable fat in chemical terms, but a liquid wax (does not go rancid, so can be kept for a long time without preservatives). Its low inherent odor and fixing effect on essential oils have made it a popular base oil in cosmetics for body and massage oils and for the production of natural perfumes. In addition to jojoba oil, other mono oils such as:

can be used. Skin oils are applied thinly and spread best on moist skin. This creates a mixture of fat and water that is easily absorbed by the skin.

  • Scalp oils:
    • The indication for scalp oils is generally scaly scalp conditions. Patients often suffer less from the disease of the capillitium itself than from its desquamation with the consecutive cosmetic problems of "dandruff" (see below Pityriasis simplex capillitii)
    • Salicylic acid based on vegetable, fatty (poorly rinsable) oils such as olive oil, almond or castor oil is often used for treatment. The disadvantage here is the hydrolytic splitting of the fats by salicylic acid into free fatty acids (unpleasant odor; skin irritation).
    • The optimal solution to this problem is a classic formulation, a 2%-10% wash-off salicylic acid top oil based on peanut oil (or rhizinus oil or octyldedocanol). This formulation is easy to wash out. As a purely nourishing scalp oil, this formulation can also be used without the active ingredient salicylic acid with a fragrance additive (e.g. with the quantity q.s.).
    • The odorless jojoba oil can also be used for scalp care on sensitive skin. Essential oils can be incorporated as fragrance components.

Recipe(s)
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Salicylic acid head oil (with eutanol G)

  • Acid.salicyl. 2.0
  • Macrogol-4-lauryl ether 10,0
  • octyldodecanol 80,0
  • S: Usage period: 6 months above 8°C (glass bottle)