Polysorbate 85 (inci)

Authors: Prof. Dr. med. Peter Altmeyer, Prof. Dr. med. Martina Bacharach-Buhles

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Last updated on: 29.10.2020

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Definition
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Polysorbates are mixtures of partial esters of sorbitol and its anhydrides with higher fatty acids (C12-C18), copolymerized with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of sorbitol. Polysorbates are usually present in oily form.

Note(s)
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The polymers are non-ionic surfactants and are used in cosmetic formulations (and pharmaceuticals) as surfactants and emulsifiers. Polysorbates are also used as solubilizers for substances with little or no water solubility like essential oils and resins. Otherwise they are used as wetting agents or as emulsifiers in food, cleaning agents and water-insoluble drugs.

Polysorbate 85 denotes the triester of polyethylene glycol sorbitol with (8=) of oleic acid with (5=) 20 polyoxyethylene units. The substance mixture is used in cosmetic formulations. It acts as an emulsifier (surface-active substance which is used in cosmetic products as an additive to combine 2 immiscible liquids - e.g. oil and water - to one emulsion) and as a surfactant (washing-active substance; improves the even distribution of the products during application).