The oligopeptides are systematically named according to the number of amino acids they contain:
2 amino acids: dipeptide
3 amino acids: tripeptide
4 amino acids: Tetrapeptide
5 amino acids: pentapeptide
6 amino acids: hexapeptide
7 amino acids: heptapeptide
8 amino acids: Octapeptide
9 amino acids: nonapeptide
10 amino acids: Decapeptide
From a functional point of view, the oligopeptides used in cosmetics can be divided as follows:
Peptides with stimulating effect on collagen synthesis: they are also used as matrikines or collagen boosters. Known representative: palmitoyl pentapeptide.
Peptides affecting the neuromuscular synapses: these lead to muscle relaxation and associated smoothing of wrinkles. A prominent representative is the acetyl hexapeptide.
Peptides with hormonal action: cytokines and growth factors such as fibroblast growth factor (FGF), signalling molecules that control various biological processes. They are usually produced biotechnologically using genetically manipulated bacteria and encapsulated liposomally.
Non-specific oligopeptides: Soya oligopeptides and oligopeptides resulting from hydrolysed milk proteins act on the skin surface. The partial breakdown of these oligopeptides produces free amino acids which support the natural NMF.